Have you ever wondered why your hair doesn't seem to grow any longer once it reaches a certain length? It's because the hair occasionally breaks. Breakage can prevent you from reaching your hair growth goals.
What's the breaking point?
It is when your hair stays at a set length and doesn't seem to grow anymore. This breakage point happens because your ends are the oldest part of your hair. Every wash, detangling session, and blow-dry wears away a little more of the cuticle (i.e., the protective outer layer of each strand), so your ends are the most likely to split and break.
Is trimming natural hair required to combat breakage? In this article, we'll tell you how often you really need a trim, and we'll teach you how to trim your own hair and cut split ends at home, just like a professional hair stylist.
There are some people who can grow their hair very long without needing a periodic trim. This could imply that these people have longer breakage points.
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Each person's hair is different, so it's important to really pay attention to the needs of your hair. For some people, occasional hair trimming helps because it cleans up the breaking point and split ends.
Does Trimming Natural Hair Encourage Hair Growth?
Trimming natural hair does not make your hair grow faster, because your hair grows from the root, not the ends. It also doesn't guarantee a longer breakage point. Trimming healthy natural hair makes it shorter. However, trimming damaged ends can help you keep the length you've grown.
Hair trimming should be done to remove split, knotted, or worn-out ends and to mitigate breakage. Trimming is meant to slow breakage or even stop it for a while so that your hair has the ability to continue growing versus breaking off.
That's because a split end doesn't stay at the tip. It can keep traveling up the strand, and a dermatologist at Cleveland Clinic compares it to a rip in your stockings. Cutting above the split stops it from going any farther.
Over time, the cuticle wears away. Its microscopic layers get stripped off one layer at a time. Dermatologists call this type of wear and tear hair weathering, and it shows up most on the ends of long hair.
The hair is weaker at the ends and is more susceptible to damage from various elements. The ends are older because new growth continuously pushes them farther from the scalp.
Over time, the hair also becomes more susceptible to potential damage from normal styling techniques, such as washing, combing, and heat styling.
How Often Should You Trim Natural Hair?
You should trim your natural hair when your ends show damage, not on a set schedule. If your ends are healthy, you can skip the trim and keep your length.
So, every couple of months, take a close look at your ends in good light. Here are the signs that your ends need a trim:
- Split ends, where one strand has frayed into two or more pieces
- Tiny knots at the very tips of your hair
- Ends that look thin or see-through compared to the rest of your hair
- Ends that tangle more easily or won't curl like the rest of your hair
If you see any of these signs, trim about a quarter inch above the damage. A split can run up the strand, so follow it with your eyes and cut above where it stops, not just at the very tip.
Ideally, the amount you cut should be smaller than the amount your hair grows. Hair grows about a third to half an inch a month, with the tightest curls at the slower end, so over two months you'll gain somewhere between two-thirds of an inch and a full inch. If you trim a quarter inch in that time, you still keep most of your new growth. But if you cut off a full inch every six weeks, your hair will get shorter even though it's growing the whole time.
If your ends look and feel like the rest of your hair, that's normal, and they don't need a trim. And if you can't tell, wait a few weeks and look again. Cutting healthy ends only costs you length.
When a Trim Won't Fix Your Breakage
A trim won't fix breakage that happens higher up your hair strands. It only takes damage off your ends, so if your hair is snapping off in the middle or close to your scalp, cutting your ends won't stop it.
This kind of breakage usually starts at weak spots along the strand, where the hair frays and snaps easily. Blow-drying, flat ironing, too much brushing, perms, and harsh chemicals can all cause these weak spots. So the way to stop it is to handle your hair more gently: use less heat, get fewer chemical services, and detangle with a wide-tooth comb while your hair is damp and full of conditioner.
If you're still finding just as many short, broken pieces at your next end check, or your hair is coming out from the root or thinning in patches, that isn't something a trim can fix. See a board-certified dermatologist to find out why.
How to Trim Your Natural Hair at Home
The video below features Whitney White, aka Naptural85, providing a step-by-step hair trimming tutorial. Check out how she divides the hair into small sections. These small sections are twisted up after the hair is trimmed to keep the strands separated.
Whichever method you choose below, the basic steps are the same:
- Start with clean, dry hair, and gently detangle it.
- Part your hair into small sections, and clip or twist the rest of your hair out of the way.
- Hold one section between two fingers in bright light, and look closely at the ends.
- Cut about a quarter inch above any split, knot, or see-through end with sharp hair shears.
- Twist or clip the section you just finished so you don't trim it twice.
Take your time on your first trim. You can always cut a little more next time, but if you take off an extra inch by mistake, it will take about two to three months to grow back.
Methods for Trimming Natural Hair at Home
Trimming is definitely beneficial because it removes split ends and cuts off knots that can't be unraveled.
Aesthetically speaking, it leaves your ends looking neat and even. The older, worn-out ends are removed.
When trimming your hair, there are three factors to consider:
- The length of your hair
- How much hair damage you have
- How much hair length you're willing to sacrifice
Keep in mind that a really sharp pair of trimming scissors is necessary for the cleanest cut possible (i.e., creates a more precise cut).
Use hair scissors and not just any pair of household scissors (e.g., kitchen scissors) lying around your home because hair scissors are made for the job. Regular scissors are not designed to cut hair.
Be sure to use a mirror, and of course, trim your hair in a bright environment with sufficient lighting.
Original Curl Centric chart
Which trim do your ends need?
Look at your ends in bright light, find the row that matches what you see, and start with the last column. If you land on the last row, a trim won’t help.
| What you need | What you see at your ends | Why | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| No trim yet | Your ends look and feel like the rest of your hair, and they curl the same way. | Healthy ends don’t need cutting. A trim would only take off length you’ve already grown. | Skip the trim, and look at your ends again in a couple of months. |
| Search and destroy | A few split ends or tiny knots here and there, but most of your ends look fine. | The damage is scattered, so you only need to cut the strands that have it. | Work through small sections, and cut about a quarter inch above each split or knot. |
| Dusting | Splits and knots on your ends all over your head, but only at the very tips. | The damage hasn’t moved up your hair strands yet, so a small cut takes all of it off. | Take off no more than a quarter inch all over, then check your ends again in about two months. |
| Full trim | Splits, knots, or thin, see-through hair that runs well past the tips, often after heat or color. | A dusting can’t reach damage that far up the strand. | Cut just above where the damage stops. After that, dusting or search and destroy can keep your ends healthy. |
| Not a trim problem | Short broken pieces after every detangling session, hair snapping off near your scalp, or thin patches. | A trim only takes damage off your ends. It can’t stop breakage higher up or hair coming out from the root. | Go easier on heat, chemicals, and brushing. If it isn’t better by your next end check, see a board-certified dermatologist. |
A trim never makes your hair grow faster. It only takes off damage, so keep each trim smaller than what your hair grows in between: about two-thirds of an inch to an inch every two months.
1. Search and Destroy Mission
Search and destroy sounds like a classified military operation. However, in this instance, it's actually a very popular method for cutting hair.
The thought is to search for sections of damaged hair and destroy them immediately.
To utilize the method, take small sections of your hair (roughly one square inch) and search through it for split ends, frayed spots, fairy knots, and breakage points.
The goal is to cut or trim the hair about one-fourth of an inch above the damage point. This trimming technique can be used as often as needed.
However, if you find yourself frequently conducting these search-and-destroy missions, it's best to consider a more comprehensive trimming method.
2. Dusting Method
If you regularly see knots and split ends in your hair, you should consider using the dusting method. The purpose is to contain the damage, keeping it from spreading further.
Using this method, you should regularly cut a small amount of hair (no more than a quarter inch) about once every two months.
If you're trying to grow long hair, dusting can still work, because a quarter inch every two months is less than your hair grows in that time. Just skip a dusting when your ends look healthy, since cutting healthy ends only makes your hair shorter.
The biggest advantage of the dusting method is the regularity with which your hair is cut. The goal is preventative maintenance. The biggest disadvantage, however, is that it won't help much if the damage is already further up the hair strand.
This means that if you want dusting to work, you'll have to keep an eye on your ends. Dusting is a practical application of the old adage, "a stitch in time saves nine".
Take note of the fact that for dusting to work, your hair needs to be in decent condition. The only way for dusting to function properly is if the damage is at the ends (or tips) of your hair strands.
3. Full Trim
Getting a regular trim may seem similar to dusting, but it has a different goal. Dusting is about general maintenance, designed to remove damage in the form of splits and knots.
Trimming is designed to establish a healthy base of hair since it takes off more length than a dusting. This can enable you to use the dusting method or conduct a search-and-destroy mission in the future.
We generally consider cutting your hair "a trim" when you cut off more than a quarter inch, usually up to about an inch. It's common for many ladies to get regular trims every few months.
The biggest advantage to getting regular trims is that it helps you keep a healthy base of hair. It's most useful after heat or color has damaged more than the very tips of your hair.
The downside, however, is that regular trims make it harder to gain length.
If your hair grows particularly slowly, you may not be able to gain length at all. For example, hair at the slower end grows about an inch in three months, so an inch off every three months keeps your hair the same length. This does mean, however, that getting a regular trim can maintain your current hairstyle if that's what you wish to do.
Should You Trim Natural Hair When Wet Or Dry?
Trimming your hair while it's wet may not be a problem for those with straight hair (type 1). Type 1 hair also isn't as vulnerable to shrinkage.
However, if you have color-treated hair, chemically relaxed hair, or simply non-uniform curl patterns, then you should choose dry trimming (or the dry hair trimming method).
Whether your hair is wet or dry, scissors that are dull or simply not designed for hair can damage your new ends. Using blunt, dull scissors creates a jagged cut.
Using a sharp pair of scissors, or at least well-maintained hair shears, will produce a clean cut. If you can, go with professional hair shears instead of paper scissors.
They may be slightly more expensive, but they're worth it if you'll be trimming your hair periodically.
You want to avoid getting hair trapped between the blades. This is one of the primary reasons why hair shears are preferable.
Wet hair looks longer, which makes it difficult to determine how much hair you're actually trimming. Many ladies have trimmed their hair while it's wet, only to find that their hair is much shorter than expected once it dries.
Also, due to the differences between texture and porosity throughout your hair, dry trimming is simply more precise. With textured hair, you may have some hair strands stretch longer than others when they get wet.
In addition, areas that are more tightly coiled might not release as fully as looser curled areas. This means that wet trimming can leave you with uneven hair.
Related Articles
- How Often Should You Cut Your Hair
- How to Thin Out Hair Without Thinning Shears
- How Much Hair Is Cut Off in a Trim
- What Is a Trim for Hair?
Trimming your own natural hair at home can be daunting, but it is certainly doable with the right tools and information. We've outlined our favorite methods for trimming your curly natural hair. Remember to use sharp hair-cutting shears and trim in a bright environment. Good luck!
